The Elegance and Utility of the Knotted Necklace
There is a distinct “magic” in the art of the knotted necklace. During my time making jewelry, I have found that the simple act of placing a hand-tied overhand knot between every bead transforms a strand into a unique, lovely creation.
Beyond the aesthetic, this technique offers three essential benefits: it creates a beautiful drape that follows the contours of the body; it provides a classic elegance that makes me think of high-end pearls; and it ensures vital security.
Should the strand break, the knots act as tiny anchors, preventing the loss of your precious gemstones or other beads – only a single bead would be released.
Creating Malas
One of the most sacred and prominent examples of this craft is the Mala necklace. Far more than a fashion statement, a Mala serves as a traditional tool for meditation or a physical reminder of one’s personal goals and intentions.
Grounded in a tradition of 108 beads secured with precise overhand knotting, the Mala invites the maker to weave intention into every inch of cord. To begin this journey, one must first master the piece’s structural anatomy and the materials that hold it together.
The Anatomy of a Traditional Mala
To the uninitiated, a Mala may look like a simple long necklace, but every element is heavy with purpose. Here are some essential things to know about Malas.
108 Beads
This traditional count is deeply rooted in the rhythms of the universe. The number reflects a mysterious cosmic geometry: the Sun’s diameter is approximately 108 times Earth’s, and the distance from the Moon to Earth is approximately 108 times the Moon’s diameter.
While many use gemstones, traditional Malas often utilize natural wood or seeds like Rudraksha (known as the “Tears of Shiva” to protect one’s energy) or Lotus Seeds (rattan seeds often called “moon and stars” to symbolize growth and inner strength).
Guru Bead
Also known as the “Divine Teacher,” this is the focal bead at the necklace’s base. Traditional guru beads feature a unique three-hole design that brings the cord ends together. A couple of my favorite places to get guru beads are Lima Beads and AliExpress.
However, many Mala creators simply use a large-hole bead that is larger than the other beads in the project and can accommodate multiple strands of cord passing through it.
It serves as a placeholder to mark the end of a mantra cycle and is not used for counting; it represents the spiritual goals one wishes to attain.
Marker/Spacer Beads (Not Always Used)
These are placed at specific intervals to bring the wearer’s awareness back to the present moment. By using a different size or texture, these beads provide a tactile cue during contemplation.
The Tassel
Attached to the Guru bead, the tassel is the traditional focal piece where the cord ends meet, symbolizing the channeling of energy and the vibration of the universe.
Alternatively, some “fashion” Malas, or necklaces made in the Mala style, may replace the tassel for something like a pendant or additional beads. Here’s a great video of Sandra Younger making tassels with a Knotty-Do-It-All board. Even if you don’t have the board, you can make tassels using cardboard, tassel makers, or even your hand.
Comparing Stringing Materials: Choosing the Best Cord for You
The cord you choose dictates the feel, longevity, and “knot-ability” of your work. What is the best jewelry cord for knotting? That depends in part on preference, but here are the primary materials I like to use.
Nylon Bead Cord (S-Lon/C-Lon)
I often call nylon the “modern powerhouse.” It is exceptionally fray-resistant and has limited stretchability. Amazon has a lot of great nylon cord listings, but I often turn to AliExpress because the quality is about the same and the prices are lower.
A significant technical advantage is the ability to melt the cord tips with a flame, creating a clean, permanent finish that ensures your work will never unravel.
Along with waxed polyester, this is one of my favorite cords to use.
Irish Waxed Linen & Waxed Polyester
For a “rustic, earthy” aesthetic, these are the ideal choices. The wax coating is a wonderful aid for the maker. It grips the knots during the tightening process, preventing them from slipping and keeping the fibers from fraying as you work.
You can find waxed polyester at a ton of places, but if you want some right away, you may want to check out Michael’s Knot-It cord.
Cotton Cord
Cotton cord – particularly waxed cotton cord – is highly regarded as a soft, comfortable, plant-based alternative to synthetic options, and it usually holds knots nicely.
However, as a natural fiber, I find it lacks the permanent durability and easy heat-sealing of nylon, and it is prone to slight shrinkage and wear over time.
Hemp Cord
Hemp cord is a highly durable, eco-friendly natural fiber that offers good knot “grip” and a nice rustic appearance, but it cannot be heat-sealed, may be too thick for tiny-hole beads like pearls, or cases when you want to double your strand.
It’s also prone to wearing down when exposed to moisture.
Silk Cord
Silk is particularly common when knotting pearls. It offers a soft drape and a sophisticated feel. However, because it is a natural fiber, be mindful that it will stretch over time, which may eventually create small gaps between your knots.
One thing to note is that vegans generally don’t approve of using silk because it is an animal product made from the cocoons of silkworms.
But what about leather? In addition to it not being liked by vegans, leather has many other issues that make it not the best choice for knotted necklaces and bracelets.
The Leather Dilemma: When Style Meets Stiffness
You will frequently see natural, round leather cord on websites that sell jewelry-making supplies. However, I’m not a fan of using it for knotting between beads. There are two primary technical hurdles.
Thickness and Stiffness
Natural leather is dense. This lack of flexibility makes it nearly impossible to pull a knot tight and flush against the bead.
Bulky Knots
The resulting knots can be pretty large. These “bulky” knots ruin the necklace’s drape, causing it to hang rigidly rather than following the body’s soft curve.
Summing Up
While I prefer to use nylon cord, like S-Lon and Chinese knotting cord, or polyester cord – especially the waxed kind – I recommend experimenting with different options to find out which one you like the best.
For example, some people rave about silk, and others refuse to use anything except plant-based cords. You may find those more preferable for your project.
Whatever cord you choose, I do recommend giving hand-knotting a try. I find it relaxing and meditative as well as pleasing to the eye. I hope you do, too. Happy knotting!
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